Île de Ré
Île de Ré is one of those magical places were the gentle sea breeze slows time, bicycles replace cars as the mode of transport and teens smile widely as they experience freedom - navigating around happily on two wheels between the beach, lighthouse and ice cream stand, catching up with parents later at apero, before a superb dinner heavy with fruits de mer and local Rosé. the buildings have a washed patina so pretty that after a week I was still eagerly photographing them, and grapevines and roses climb effortless, stretching out across the pretty flat facades of the former fishermens’ homes. it is a place so relaxed, visually perfect and charming, that I know we will continue to return over the years.
We stayed in divine Ars-en-Ré and were guided in our planning by YOLO Journal’s Île de Ré’s Newsletter by Yolanda Edwards, which is where we discovered adorable Le Sénéchal Hotel - an oasis of relaxed beauty, with the friendliest staff who happily made restaurant reservations, booked the boys a jet skiing safari (my son’s bucket list favourite) and pointed us in the direction of the bike hire (impossibly well priced even for my electric version so I could keep up). Perfect for families, we stayed in a bijoux two bedroom house around the corner from the hotel, but wandered across for breakfast in the flower ladened courtyard each morning. I can’t recommend Le Sénéchal highly enough, I love its quiet, central position in the village and superb design and the clincher - on a couple of nights after the sun had set but as the twilight was lingering and I was closing the shutters, the sound of the boys playing their guitar and singing as they sat outside the pizza shop after closing, drifted up and to the window. Joyful.
Ars-en-Ré is a superb location on the far end of the island, with a warm, welcoming feel and outstanding bike rides and restaurants. From the village it is an easy ride to the oyster huts in one direction and the lighthouse at phare des baleines via the vineyards in the other, with the daily market and smattering of boutiques, it makes for an effortless destination if you only had a couple of days. At phare des baleines there is a parking bay for the bikes and a La Martinière Ice Creamery for all (so so delicious). The lively daily market was my favourite post breakfast stop and freshly shucked oysters from here with a glass of crisp local white, was my standout lunch of the week. A brocante sets up on Sundays down by the marina and Cote Jardin is a favourite store I shall be returning to on rotation.
We stayed for the most magical week and visited Saint Martin en Ré, La Flotte and Loix, we rode for miles, sampled the delicious local wines and had many wonderful meals. Cannot recommend this island enough and our family will return time and again to enjoy its simple charms.
We visited so many beautiful restaurants and boutiques during our stay, but I have listed just a few below to get you started with your planning. Make sure you make restaurant reservations, it gets impossibly busy, and if you have booked on a terrace and it is raining heavily, do contact the restaurant as like darling Le Serghi in Saint Martin, they may be able to pop you up in their private dining room instead.
Restaurants
Chez Remy, Ars-en-Ré
Le Tour de Sénéchal, Ars-en-Ré
La Barbue, Ars-en-Ré
La cabane du Feneau, Couarde-sur-Mer
Le Serghi, Saint-Martin-en Ré (my favourite)
La Cible, Saint-Martin-en Ré right on the beach (the teen’s favourite)
L'Écailler, Porte de la Flotte
Boutiques
Côté Jardin, Ars-en-Ré
Domaine Arica, Ars-en-Ré (organic vineyard delicious white, rosé & red)
Madelaine & Gustave, Ars-en-Ré
Octopus Gallery, Ars-en-Ré
Magasin De La République, Saint-Martin-en Ré
Do
Rent a bike and sink into the laidback rhythm of the island
Cycle to the lighthouse and vineyards and if it rains, through the pine forest, trust me it’s beautiful
Visit the fabulous daily markets
Stay
Le Sénéchal, Ars-en-Ré
Le Lanternon, Saint-Martin-en Ré (I have this boutique hotel saved for when the teens ditch us for their friends one European summer)
